Manufacture of footwear



Jan. 17, 1939. D. w'. FARRINGTON 2,144,330

' i MANUFACTURE of* FooTwEAR Filedv Sept. 18, A1935 www1-Aas ,s2,144,330 i N s `footwear3,:and particularlyitothe making of shoes s 3having an insole thatis centrally perforate at its 3` 33 forepart `andan outsole having araised landed o portion that compiementsthe aperturedinsole in the completedshoe. "f

3 van object of" the invention iste provide a 3 method for constructingshoeshaving the gen- 3 `eral characteristics described above on 3fiatbot- @lo` `tom lasts, while avoiding certaindiiculties `that `previouslyhavebeenencountered when this has been3attempted. s n n 3 "3Complementaryinsoles and outsoles of the kind herein contemplated `andpreferredare disclosed 3` "specifically, objects of`thepresentinvention` are 3 "Ming `substantially` the advantagesprovided bythe 333, 3 3Sbicca form of construction in factories 'n now3l 1320 equipped Withiiat "bcttomiasts, without necessitating thereplacement `of `such lastsjby; those havinga roundor Aconvex bottomstructure,` or

` other' treatment tojafford room` for thelasting f allowance'.

offtheSbiccal typeonat bottom lasts has been `lconsideredin thecopending application of3 Frank s Maiellano `Serial No. 36,056,1i1edAugust 14, 1935` n ,n in whichvarious waysffof meeting this` problem 70are disclosed and claimedg'lhe present invenv 3 tion 3has fora.particularobject theprovision of a method'fwherebysuch type of shoe canbe man- 3 z nlufactured Aon flatgbottomlasts Without" incorpo-.ratingfirithelfinishedV shoe `a.ller piece orv like 3 extraelementQasis done in accordance with certainmamong the methods3proposed`in the mesn-` 3 `tionen Maieilsno application,

3 A lfurther objectotthe invention isto provide 3 3 o amethbd ofmanutacturing single sole shoeshav- "ing perforatejinsoles wherein meansis f provided 3for`supporting theA insole on a at bottom lastinproperpositiontomate with a landed 3outsole s `during the soleafiixingroperation, and wherein preferably acts as a stiflener or3reinforcement 3for the insole duringlasting, and/or also com- `adjacentits aperturejduring roughing operations.

. YeiJ another objectfof3 the 'invention is to proa vide an aperturedinsoleihaving associated stiff- 3 ening, supporting, and/or shieldingmeans, which 31553 presently disclosed process. 3 3

y, f Thisiinvention relates to the :manufacture of i 3 33 in the SbiccaPatent`No".A `1";902325. i Stated more 3 3 to make`possibloathe`manufacture of shoes havi `The proble'mfof manutacturingsingle:soleshoes i showing the application 3 lasted upper; and 3 3 3 :presentinvention. Shoes embodying insoles and outsoles made in 3 accordancewith the teachings of the above men- `tioned Sbicca patent; wherein aninsole is sepa- `rated `or split froml a piece of outsole stock whileleaving la raised landed portion at the central forepart area of theoutsole andfforming a com- 3 plementary aperture inthe correspondingportion ofwthe insole, have become increasingly popular,"

f such supporting means includes an element which is particularly usefulin following the steps of the Other objects ofthe invention'will in partbe obvious and will in.` part appear hereinafter.

3 "AIheinvention accordingly comprises the sevl 3 eral steps and therelation .of oneor more of such steps with respect to each of theothersfandthe article possessing3 the features, properties, `andthe'relation of. elements, which areexemplied in the following detaileddisclosure; and the scope ofthe inventionwill be indicated in theclaims.

For a fuller understanding of the'nature and objects of the invention,reference should be had to the' following detailed description taken.3in

connection with the accompanying drawing,3 in which i '3 Fig. 1is 3aperspective view of a complementary insole `ariel outsolefblank` showingthe insole par- 3tiallysplit orremovedtherefrom;` f 3 33 s Fig 2 isaperspective view of an insoleand V associatedpartsconstructedandprovided in accordancewith i the principlesof the-3 present invention;v33 A i Fig. 3 is ajfragmentary transverse sectional view, on an enlargedscale, showing the insole3 of l Fig. 2 locatedjona'at bottom last;

Fig. 4 is afragrnentary transverse vertical seci' tional view,`corresponding to Fig. 3 and showing an upper lastedto theuinsole; 3s

Fig; 5 is a fragmentary transverse vertical sectionalwiewcorrespondingtoFigs. 3 and 34 and Fig. 6 is `a transverse verticalsectional view across the forepartWofia completed shoe constructed inaccordance with the principles 0I the and` there are now manymanufacturers who wish to make them. For3 reasons that are'famil-3 3 lartolthe art, and are more fully described in the n n s 3 above mentionedMaiellano application, this type s d prises 3a 3shield which is capableof protecting the 3 `insole asglainstfundesired tearing' and abrading3of `shoe is more readily adapted to be made on elevate themarginahportions of the latter with respectto itscentral forepartportion during the sole aixingoperation, sothatwhen ilatl bottom of an`outsole to the' round bottom lasts than onthose having at bottomslyinviewof3 the `fact that the" introductionl i of lasting3 allowancematerial between the com- 3 plementary insole and 4outsole :tendsrelativelyto y l 19, 1934 or in any other suitable manner capablematedginsole andjcnrtsole` lasts are used, it is preferable to providemeans to support this portion of the outsole to assist in preventing anundesired depression or recess at this part of the shoe. However, manymanufacturers have flat bottom lasts in'stock, and while they prefer tomake shoes having the Sbicca type construction, they naturally wish toavoid, if possible, discarding their existing flat bottom equip ment andmay wish to avoid additional skiving, coping, or roughing operations onthe leather to afford room for the upper lasting allowance. The presentinvention provides a shoe construction which renders this possible.

Referring more particularly to the drawing, there is shown in Fig. larounded blank I of outsole leather which is adapted to have an insoleII splitr or removed'from the'flesh side thereof. The removal of'suchinsole leaves an outsole I2, and the removal is so effected that araised land il is left at the central forepart portion ofthe outsole andarcorresponding aperture Il is `providedjin the insole which is shapedand contoured soasexactly lto tilt and complement the land on theoutsole; Buch complemen- /tary insole and outsole maybe made by thethree cut process injthe'Sbicca-Patent l No. 1,902,725 orfitVmaybe'fperformed in a single of giving the required construction.

`4`operation on the the-manner disclosedinqthecopendig'tappli'cation ofWilliam C. Card. dnerialfNo. 748,979, October The outer marginal :edge

size f somewhat less .than that of the outsole. This'trimmingmay beeffected bythe preliminary removal of -a marginal rand before the insoleis split from the outsole, as shown in Sbicca Patent No. v1,838,708; orby. a separate `rounding application following its removal; or in anyother suitable manner.v

l The trimmed and apertured yinsole is next furnished with a ply'ofsheet material Il, which kis shaped so as to overlie the margin ofaperture Il for ka short distance, its outer edges being preferablylocated at or slightly inwardly from the inner boundary of the marginallasting allowance area provided at the forepart oi' the insole.VV Thatis, the sheet is preferably dimensioned so as to lie within the inneredges of the overturned lasting allowance of an upper lasted latex,whichlmaybe applied entirely over one side thereof, so as to providetemporary adhesive contact between the outer margin of the sheet andvthe inner `margin of the insole adjacent aperture il, while presentingan exposed tacky surface within such aperture. 'This sheet is stuck tothe lasting side of the insole, which is the split or grain side whenitis intended that such i insole side shallbe` reassembled in opposedrelation with the split ordesh side of the outsole from kwhichit wasremoved., Sincev the split, surface of the insole is sometimessmootherthan the flesh side, some manufacturers vprefer to reassemble theinsolesplit from a right outsole in il of the insole is trimmed .or rounded inany suitablemanner to a reversed position on a left outsole, so that thesplit surface of the insole will be exposed in the interior of the shoe.If this is done, the sheet i5 should be stuck to the flesh side, whichwill then be the lasting side. If desired, the stifi'ening sheet IG maybe attached to the insole prior to the trimming operation at i5,assuming that the latter is performed after removal oi' the insole fromthe outsole,r in which caselit will serve to strengthen the insoleduring such operation.

A filler piece is next applied to the central forepart portion of theinsole on the opposite side thereof from sheet i6. This filler piece ispreferably of composite structure, comprising a ply il, which alsopreferably is formed of fiber board in order to impart added stiffnessand strength to the insole, to which is permanently cemented i a ply ilof felt or like material. 'I'he fiber board ply i8 may be somewhatlarger than the sheet Il, and the felt ply Il, which is thicker than thefiber board, is preferably feathered along its outer margin, aslillustrated.- The thickness of the composite ller piece equals orapproximates that ofthe upper materials which are to be lasted to theinsole. Such filler piece is located across the aperture il, the ply, ilthereof being stuck to the 1temporary adhesive `ii .which is exposedthrough such aperture.

An alternative and presently preferred proce- Adure forfassembling'thesheet membersv I6 4and the v filler piecefior'l member with the insolecomprisesgcoating-the freenface of theriller piece `plyild'witlrtemporary adhesive su'chas a suitable forxnloflatex andsticking the filler piece to the'inclined marginof the insolel'boundingthe aperture i",v f 4".lhe protective sheet member i6 is then stuckotothe tacky' surface of the filler vmember throughVV such aperture.

l Thisv procedure has the'advantage of, preventing the undesireddepositof latex or other foreign material on the lasting side of the insoleadjacent its aperture margins, thus leaving a clean surface at suchmargin for the reception of permanent cement, such as pyroxylin, duringthe subsequent outsole aillxing operation.

The insole thus constructed is located on a last,'which mayrhave a fiatbottom, .as shown in Fig. 3.l vIn locating the insole, the felt fillerpiece ply is positioned against the bottom of the last, and thestifi'ening'" ply II `is outwardly exposed.

'I'he assembled upper 2li, is next pulled over the last and'its lastingallowance 2i is lasted thereto,

preferably' by means of pyroxylin cement or the like, although othertypes of lasting, such as stitching or stapling maysbeadopted, ifdesired. When cement side lasting is employed, the martom, and thepresence Aof the iiber'board sheet I 6 prevents ythe roughing tool usedfor such operation from' tearing or abrading the thin inner Fig. 4, andthis overturned lasting allowance may lalso be roughed to prepare it forcement attachment to an outsole. The sheet it also acts as a protectivevshield for theiin'sole' during this bottom roughing operation.

After the upper has been permanently lasted to the insole, the sheetItis removed by tearing or pulling it away from the bottom of the lastedl ginal lasting allowance of the insole shouldbe yroughed prior to its.location on the Ylast vbotv.with said land, temporarily attaching asheet of material to one side `of said insole across its aperture,roughing themarginal portion of said insole beyond said material,`positioning a filler kpiece on the 'opposite Aside of said insole andtemporarily attaching it to said material through said aperture1ocatingsaid insole on a at bottom last with said; filler piece facing the lastbottom, cement lasting an upper tothe roughed margin of said insole,bottom roughing such lastedupper, removing said material from saidyinsole and from said filler piece to expose. said insole aperture,cement aiiixing said outsole to said lasted upper with its land fittingsaid aperture, delasting theshoe thus formed, and removing said fillerpiece `from the interior thereof. l

' 5. `A method of making shoes which comprises providing anoutsolehaving a raised land at its central .forepart portion and aninsole having 'an apertured central forepart portion corre- `sheetmember, locating. said insolelon a fiat bot- 4tomilast with said fillermember facing the last bottom, cement lastingv anupper to the roughed`margin of said insole, bottom vroughing such ,lasted upper, removingsaid sheet member from said insole and fromV said filler member toexpose saidinsole aperture, cement aiiixing said outsole tosaid',lastedmupper with its land fitting said aperture, delasting theshoe thus formed, and removing saidfiller member from the interiorthereof.,v I i j 6.7A method of `making shoes which comprises providinganfoutsole having a raised, land atits central forepart portion and aninsole having an apertured central forepartportion corresponding withsaid land, positioning auprotective sheet member on one side of saidinsole' across said aperture land over the adjacent insole marginbounding said aperture, positioning a filler member on the opposite sideVof said insole, temporarily adhesively fastening one of said members tothe insole, and temporarily adhesively attaching the other of saidmembers tosaid first named member through said I aperture, roughing themarginal portion of saidjinsole beyond said sheet member, locating saidinsole on a fiat bottom last with said filler member facing the lastbottom, cement lasting'anupper to the roughed marginal portion of saidinsole and trimming the lasting allowance of such upper until it clearssaid'sheet member, bottom roughing such lasted upper, removing saidsheet member, cement aflfixing said outsole lto said lasted upper withits land fitting said insole aperture, delasting the shoe thus formed,and removing said filler member from `the' interior thereof. Y

7. A method of making shoes which comprises providing an `outsolerhaving a raised land at'its central forepart'p'ortion and an insolehaving an apertured central forepart portion corresponding with saidlandgpositlo/ning a protective sheet member on one side off-said insoleacross said aperture and over the-adjacent insole margin bounding saidaperture, positioning a filler member on the opposite side of saidinsole, temporarily adhesively fastening one of said members to theinsole, and temporarily adhesively attaching the other of said membersto said first .named member through said aperture, roughing the marginal-portion of said insole beyond said sheet member, locating said insoleon a flat bottom last with said filler member facing the last bottom,cement lasting an upper to the roughed marginal portion of said insoleand trimming the lasting allowance of such upper until it clears saidsheet member, bottom roughing such lasted upper, removing said sheetmember, roughingthe marginal portions of said outsole, applying cementto the roughed portions of such loutsole and of the bottom of saidlasted upper, affixing said outsole to said lasted upper under pressurewith its land fitting said insole aperture, delasting the shoe thusformed, and removing said filler member from the interior thereof.

8,. A method of making shoes which comprises providing an outsolehavingl a raised land at its central forepart portion and insole havingan apertured central forepart portion corresponding with said land,coating one side of a reinforcing sheet with a temporary adhesive,sticking the f y marginal portions of said sheet to the margin of saidinsole aperture -by means of said adhesive, positioning a filler pieceon the opposite side of said insolev from said sheet and sticking lt tothe latter through said aperture, locating said insole on a fiat bottolast with said filler piece facing the last, lastin an upper to themarginal portions of said ou le located outwardly from said sheetmember, ttom roughing such lasted upper, removing `sa d sheet member,and cement afiixing said outso to said lasted upper with its landfitting said i sole aperture.

9. A method of making shoes which comprises providing an outsole havingav raised land at its central forepart portion and an insole having anapertured central forepart portion corresponding with said land, coatingone side of a filler piece with a' temporary adhesive, sticking themarginal portions of said filler piece to the margin of said insoleaperture by means of said adhesive, positioning a ysheet member on theopposite side of said insole from said filler piece Vand sticking it tothe latter through said aperture, locating said insole on a fiat bottomlast with said filler piece facing the last, lasting an upper to themarginal portions of said outsole located outwardly from said sheetmember, bottom roughing such lasted upper, removing said sheet member,and cement affixing said outsole to said lasted upper with its landfitting said insole aperture.

10. An insole for use in the manufacture of shoes of the classdescribed, said insole having an aperture through its central forepartportion, aflber board vsheet of greater extent than said aperture andVof less extent than said insole forepart, a second fiber board sheetpositionedon the opposite side of said insole, temporary adhesivecoating one face of one of said sheets, said coated sheet being stuck tothe bounding margin of said insole aperture and being stuck to the othersheet through said aperture, and a felt pad cemented to said secondsheet, saidl pad being positioned opposite the kcentral forepart portionof said insole.-

. DANIEL W. FARRINGTON.

